Ayissi fuses African tradition and Parisian craft with bold flower forms at fall couture show

PARIS (AP) — Beneath an opulent chandelier in a sunlit salon, Imane Ayissi’s fall couture show once again fused African tradition with Parisian craft.

Monday’s running motif was the flower, explored in bold, distinct ways.

In one of the most striking looks, the model’s entire upper body was transformed into a sculpture of giant vermillion flowers — petals constructed to fly outward and create a vivid silhouette.

Another satin dress placed a flower appliqué playfully at the hip, as if growing from the fabric itself.

Elsewhere, a tailored pink jacket was punctuated by crisp white floral embellishments, merging softness with geometry.

Ayissi played with contrasts throughout: sharply structured jackets alongside softer, draped pieces, and traditional African textiles interpreted with couture techniques. Handwork and tactile details gave the collection both presence and lightness.

If there was sometimes tension between architectural lines and exuberant decoration, Ayissi’s best looks felt fresh and intentional — pushing the conversation between heritage and high fashion forward. Once again, he made a compelling case for the place of African craft in the heart of Paris couture.