Giorgio Armani launches new era with iridescent colors and a star-studded front row

By COLLEEN BARRY
AP Fashion Writer

MILAN (AP) — Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams joined a star-studded front row Monday for the first Giorgio Armani menswear runway collection under the sole creative direction of Leo Dell’Orco following the iconic designer’s death in September.

The collection previewed on the final day of Milan Fashion Week was in complete continuity with Armani’s heritage soft tailoring — but there were signs of a new sharpness and modernity.

From the first look, the collection embraced a fresh color story, with a loden green top pulling together a textured jacket and gray trousers. Iridescent jewel tones in soothing purples and lapis blues played beautifully off velvet, cashmeres and chenille.

Archival Armani came through in blouson bomber jackets and belted trench coat looks with simple white shirts and ties and the trademark pleated trouser. Slightly crumpled fedora hats completed the looks.

While Armani himself rarely staged a finale, the new collection got a full walk-through, as Martin filmed intently from the front row, and as the crowd applauded.

“Somehow it feels more energetic, there is something about joy. It is not a new beginning but you can sense something new is happening, there is a sense of energy that is great,’’ said Alex Badia, WWD’s fashion and style director.

Carlo Capasa, the head of Milan’s fashion chamber, said the collection was very “modern.” “I found the true spirit of Armani,” he said after the show.

Dell’Orco, Armani’s collaborator of 40 years, took a bow to long applause after the show. Unlike Armani, who always wore a simple dark T-shirt, in later years adding a blazer, Dell’Orco wore a double-breasted suit but no tie.